Yoo hoo! Big summer BBQ! “But where will everyone sit?” you ask. Well, you could run to Pottery Barn or Restoration Hardware to purchase a long, solid wood outdoor table for a minimum of $1,500. OR, even better idea… You could build your own!
What???!!! You ask… YES! You can build a 9 foot long solid wood table AND you can build it for less than $250! If I, who has never in her life built a table, can build this large, beautiful table (if I do say so myself 🙂 ) all by my lonesome, than trust me, you can too!
I decided to build myself this table for my 40th birthday. Happy Birthday to me!! I had been wanting a long, outdoor dining table FOREVER and I would never be able to convince hubby that it was worth the cost to buy one, so I set my mind to building one, and I did! I finished it just in time to have 12 family members over to celebrate my jump into middle-age and to test drive the new table.
QUICK UPDATE! I have created plans (located here) for a matching 9 foot long bench for this table :
So, I decided to make the top of the table, except I modified it to be longer, and then I built my own base by looking at elements from other DIY tables, and creating my own. And, I must say, I do love how it turned out:
Here are the plans for the table for those who may want to replicate it:
- 14 – 2x4x10
- 4 – 2x6x12
Tools and Supplies:
- 5 – 2×4 @ 105 1/2″ each
- 4 – 2×6 @ 105 1/2″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 108 1/2″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 43 3/16″ each
- 3 – 2×4 @ 39 1/2″ each with each end cut at 45 degree angle
- 8 – 2×4 @ 17″ each, with each end cut at 45 degree angle
- 4 – 2×4 @ 24″ each
- 4 – 2×4 @ 6″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 30 5/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 2 – 2×4 @ 33 7/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 2 – 2×4 @ 35 11/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 1 – 2×3 @ 68 1/2″, (cut 2×4 to 68 1/2″, and then rip board down to 3″ wide on table saw)
First build the table top:
- Cut five 2x4s to 105 1/2″ each
- Cut four 2x6s to 105 1/2″ each
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes about 12″ apart into two of the 2×4 boards (these will be the outer end boards of the table, and the pocket holes will be used to attach the trim pieces to the sides of the table top)
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 2×6 boards
- Cut three 2x4s to 39 1/2″ in length, with a 45 degree angle cut at each of the ends:
- Lay the 105 1/2″ 2x4s and 2x6s next to each other on a large flat surface, with 2x4s on each end, and then rotating 2x6s and 2x4s between the two end 2x4s (you can leave 1/4″ to 1/2″ spaces between the boards to allow for water drainage, the wood I was working with was pretty wet, so I knew it would shrink, so I did not leave spaces between the boards as I knew they would appear later once the wood dried).
- Place the three 39 1/2″ boards across the table top boards using the template below as a guide:
- Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws to adhere the top support boards to the underside of the table top (predrill with a countersink bit prior to placing screws). Place two screws into each 2×4 table top board and four screws into each 2×6 table top board.
- Cut two 2×4 boards to 108 1/2″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at each end.
- Cut two 2×4 boards to 43 3/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).
- Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior pocket hole screws to attach the trim boards to each side/end of the table (use the pocket holes drilled into the side 2x4s and the ends of the 2x6s).
- The table top should be complete, and should now look like this:
The top is now complete, next is the table base, here is a diagram of the side view of the base:
- Cut four 2x4s to 6″ each
- Cut four 2x4s to 24″ each
- Cut two 2x4s to 33 7/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at each end:
- Cut two 2x4s to 30 5/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).
- Cut eight 2x4s to 17″ each, long end to long end, with a 45 degree angle cut at each end (these are for the diamond in the center of each leg):
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws, attach a 6″ 2×4 to each end of the 33 7/16″ boards (predrill with a countersink bit, and attach from the top of the long board down into the 6″ board, the holes will be covered by another board).
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ screws, attach the 30 5/16″ board to the top of the 33 7/16″ boards
- Drill two 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 24″ 2x4s. Using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue, attach a 24″ 2×4 to each side of the foot of the base (make sure pocket holes are on inside of table – where the diamond shape will eventually be).
- Next, using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach each 24″ 2×4 (with the feet also attached) to each of the end table top support boards (the boards the table top boards are attached to).
- Next are the support beams to make sure the table is sturdy and stable:
- Cut a 68 1/2″ 2×4. Using a table saw, rip the 68 1/2″ board to 3″ in width (so it is now a 2×3). Make sure to measure the distance between the table legs prior to cutting the 2×4 to confirm the distance is 68 1/2″!
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 68 1/2″ board and using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach the board to the stacked 2x4s that make up the bottom of each side of the base.
- Cut two 2x4s to 35 11/16″ each long end to long end, with a 45 degree angle cut at each end.
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of one side of the 35 11/16″ boards and using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach the boards to the center support board and the underside of the top of the table.
Next, its time to add the diamond to the center of each side of the table base.
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws (predrill with a countersink bit), attach four of the 17″ boards with the ends cut at 45 degrees, in a diamond shape into the center of each leg base.
Now you can flip your table right side up! Here are some pics of my table prior to any finishing work:
Once the table was built, I filled all the holes with wood filler and let it dry. I then sanded the table and applied Varathane Dark Walnut stain, followed by three coats of Spar Urethane Exterior Satin finish varnish. Here are some more pics of the completed table:
This table easily sits 10 people and can fit two more if you don’t mind being a little comfy with your table mates! It took me about three weeks to build, working on it in evenings after work, and on weekends. Total cost was less than $250, WAY cheaper than if I had purchased a solid wood table of this size from a retail store!
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