Yoo hoo! Big summer BBQ! “But where will everyone sit?” you ask. Well, you could run to Pottery Barn or Restoration Hardware to purchase a long, solid wood outdoor table for a minimum of $1,500. OR, even better idea… You could build your own!
What???!!! You ask… YES! You can build a 9 foot long solid wood table AND you can build it for less than $250! If I, who has never in her life built a table, can build this large, beautiful table (if I do say so myself 🙂 ) all by my lonesome, than trust me, you can too!
I decided to build myself this table for my 40th birthday. Happy Birthday to me!! I had been wanting a long, outdoor dining table FOREVER and I would never be able to convince hubby that it was worth the cost to buy one, so I set my mind to building one, and I did! I finished it just in time to have 12 family members over to celebrate my jump into middle-age and to test drive the new table.
QUICK UPDATE! I have created plans (located here) for a matching 9 foot long bench for this table :
So, I decided to make the top of the table, except I modified it to be longer, and then I built my own base by looking at elements from other DIY tables, and creating my own. And, I must say, I do love how it turned out:
Here are the plans for the table for those who may want to replicate it:
DIY Large Outdoor Dining Table Materials List:
- 14 – 2x4x10
- 4 – 2x6x12
Tools and Supplies:
- 5 – 2×4 @ 105 1/2″ each
- 4 – 2×6 @ 105 1/2″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 108 1/2″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 43 3/16″ each
- 3 – 2×4 @ 39 1/2″ each with each end cut at 45 degree angle
- 8 – 2×4 @ 17″ each, with each end cut at 45 degree angle
- 4 – 2×4 @ 24″ each
- 4 – 2×4 @ 6″ each
- 2 – 2×4 @ 30 5/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 2 – 2×4 @ 33 7/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 2 – 2×4 @ 35 11/16″ each, with each end cut at a 45 degree angle
- 1 – 2×3 @ 68 1/2″, (cut 2×4 to 68 1/2″, and then rip board down to 3″ wide on table saw)
First build the table top:
- Cut five 2x4s to 105 1/2″ each
- Cut four 2x6s to 105 1/2″ each
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes about 12″ apart into two of the 2×4 boards (these will be the outer end boards of the table, and the pocket holes will be used to attach the trim pieces to the sides of the table top)
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 2×6 boards
- Cut three 2x4s to 39 1/2″ in length, with a 45 degree angle cut at each of the ends:
- Lay the 105 1/2″ 2x4s and 2x6s next to each other on a large flat surface, with 2x4s on each end, and then rotating 2x6s and 2x4s between the two end 2x4s (you can leave 1/4″ to 1/2″ spaces between the boards to allow for water drainage, the wood I was working with was pretty wet, so I knew it would shrink, so I did not leave spaces between the boards as I knew they would appear later once the wood dried).
- Place the three 39 1/2″ boards across the table top boards using the template below as a guide:
- Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws to adhere the top support boards to the underside of the table top (predrill with a countersink bit prior to placing screws). Place two screws into each 2×4 table top board and four screws into each 2×6 table top board.
- Cut two 2×4 boards to 108 1/2″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at each end.
- Cut two 2×4 boards to 43 3/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).
- Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior pocket hole screws to attach the trim boards to each side/end of the table (use the pocket holes drilled into the side 2x4s and the ends of the 2x6s).
- The table top should be complete, and should now look like this:
The top is now complete, next is the table base, here is a diagram of the side view of the base:
- Cut four 2x4s to 6″ each
- Cut four 2x4s to 24″ each
- Cut two 2x4s to 33 7/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at each end:
- Cut two 2x4s to 30 5/16″ each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).
- Cut eight 2x4s to 17″ each, long end to long end, with a 45 degree angle cut at each end (these are for the diamond in the center of each leg):
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws, attach a 6″ 2×4 to each end of the 33 7/16″ boards (predrill with a countersink bit, and attach from the top of the long board down into the 6″ board, the holes will be covered by another board).
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ screws, attach the 30 5/16″ board to the top of the 33 7/16″ boards
- Drill two 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 24″ 2x4s. Using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue, attach a 24″ 2×4 to each side of the foot of the base (make sure pocket holes are on inside of table – where the diamond shape will eventually be).
- Next, using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach each 24″ 2×4 (with the feet also attached) to each of the end table top support boards (the boards the table top boards are attached to).
- Next are the support beams to make sure the table is sturdy and stable:
- Cut a 68 1/2″ 2×4. Using a table saw, rip the 68 1/2″ board to 3″ in width (so it is now a 2×3). Make sure to measure the distance between the table legs prior to cutting the 2×4 to confirm the distance is 68 1/2″
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of the 68 1/2″ board and using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach the board to the stacked 2x4s that make up the bottom of each side of the base.
- Cut two 2x4s to 35 11/16″ each long end to long end, with a 45 degree angle cut at each end.
- Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into each end of one side of the 35 11/16″ boards and using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach the boards to the center support board and the underside of the top of the table.
- Next, its time to add the diamond to the center of each side of the table base.
- Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ exterior wood screws (predrill with a countersink bit), attach four of the 17″ boards with the ends cut at 45 degrees, in a diamond shape into the center of each leg base.
- Now you can flip your table right side up! Here are some pics of my table prior to any finishing work:
- Once the table was built, I filled all the holes with wood filler and let it dry. I then sanded the table and applied Varathane Dark Walnut stain, followed by three coats of Spar Urethane Exterior Satin finish varnish. Here are some more pics of the completed table:
This table easily sits 10 people and can fit two more if you don’t mind being a little comfy with your table mates! It took me about three weeks to build, working on it in evenings after work, and on weekends. Total cost was less than $250, WAY cheaper than if I had purchased a solid wood table of this size from a retail store!