DIY Bedroom Entertainment Center

*Note:  this post contains affiliate links.  Please see my disclosure on my home page

It has been a while since my last post, but I was working hard to finish my biggest project yet and it’s FINALLY complete!!! A DIY Bedroom Entertainment Center for my master bedroom! It took me a while to come up with the design plans with the features I wanted, but once I did,  I was working fast and furious to get this bad boy finished! 🙂  (Although I did take a week-long break during the build for a much-needed tropical vacay!)

I have been drooling over the laundry basket dresser/organizers I have seen on Pinterest (Ana White has some plans for a simple one here).  Unfortunately, even though my master bedroom is a decent size, we do not have a ton of wall space due to all the doors in our bedroom (2 closet doors, patio slider, bathroom door, and door to hallway).  We really only have one full wall of space, with some smaller wall spaces in between the doors.  As a result,  I didn’t have room for one of these laundry dressers so I just watched with envy as others posted theirs on Pinterest.  🙁  But then, inspiration struck!  Yay! Love when that happens!

Our TV and components have been hanging on the wall in our master bedroom and I have hated how it looked since we moved in.  The wires were clumped together along the wall and it just looked messy and unorganized.  In addition,  we had a laundry sorter that I had purchased off Amazon on the wall next to my closet, but it blocked a portion of the entryway to my closet, which I also greatly disliked.  Here’s a pic of the before:

 

 

I had been thinking that I should build an entertainment center for our master bedroom to make the TV area look much nicer and that was when the inspiration struck to build an entertainment center and have the bottom portion be the laundry sorter/organizer that I had been wanting.  So, for those of you with limited wall space in your bedroom,  here are the plans for you to build this baby!  (Although beware, it is tall and heavy!) Hubby and I shed a lot of blood, sweat, and tears getting this beast from the shop into our master bedroom!  But we prevailed, although not without some bodily damage to my arms:

Materials:

Wood List:

Quantity	Size
1 1/2 sheets	3/4″ cabinet grade plywood
2 sheets	Beadboard backing
11	2″ x 2″ @ 8′
4	1″ x 12″ @ 6′
1	2″ x 6″ @ 6′
2	1″ x 2″ @ 6′
6	2″ x 4″ @ 8′
110″	crown molding
32″	small trim boards

Tools and Supplies:

Miter Saw	Circular Saw	Drill/Driver	Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer/Finish Nailer	Wood Glue	Pine Pocket Hole Plugs	Countersink Bits
2 1/2″ pocket hole screws	1 1/4″ pocket hole screws	1″ pocket hole screws	2 1/2″ wood screws
Wood Stain	White Paint Primer	Heirloom White Paint	Polycrylic Finish

 

Cut List:

#	Board Type	Cut to Size/Length:
2	3/4″ plywood	56 1/4″ x 20 1/4″
2	3/4″ plywood	18″ x 33 1/2″
1	3/4″ plywood	19 1/2″ x 14 1/8″
1	3/4″ plywood	19 1/2″ x 16 1/4″
2	2″ x 2″	39 1/2″
2	2″ x 2″	90 1/2″
6	2″ x 2″	56 1/4″
2	2″ x 2″	4 3/4″
1	2″ x 2″	14 1/4″
1	2″ x 2″	14 1/2″
4	2″ x 2″	11 1/4″
2	2″ x 2″	51″
8	2″ x 2″	19″
3	2″ x 2″	18″
2	1″ x 12″	56 1/4″
2	1″ x 12″	48″
2	1″ x 2″	56 1/4″
2	2″ x 4″	59 1/4″
4	2″ x 4″	56 1/4″
1	2″ x 6″	11 1/4″
1	beadboard	48″ wide x 84 1/2″ long
1	beadboard	84 1/2″ long x 11 1/4″ wide
1	crown molding	59 1/4″ short end to short end
2	crown molding	14 1/4″ short end to straight end
2	small trim	1 1/2″ straight end to short end
2	small trim	14 1/4″ straight end to short end

Instructions:

First, using a circular saw (or table saw), cut the 3/4″ plywood to size:

• 2 boards @ 56 1/4″ x 20 1/4″
• 2 boards @ 18″ x 33 1/2″
• 1 board @ 19 1/2″ x 14 1/8″
• 1 board @ 19 1/2″ x 16 1/4″

I used my circular saw with my Kreg Rip Cut to ensure the cuts were straight and the right size. If you don’t have a Rip Cut, I highly recommend it, it makes cutting with a circular saw WAY easier (I can’t cut straight to save my life without it!) You can buy one on Amazon here: Kreg KMA2675 Kreg Rip-Cut.

Set the two  19 1/2″ boards aside for now, those will be used later.  You should now have four boards you will be working with.

Drill 3/4″ pocket holes ~8″ apart along each of the long sides of one side of each of the 18″ x 33 1/2″ plywood boards.

 

Next, cut two 2×2 boards to 39 1/2″ each (front legs) and cut two 2×2 boards to 90 1/2″ each (back legs).

Using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws,  attach each of the 18″ wide boards to one of the   39 1/2″ 2×2 and to one of the 90 1/2″ 2×2 boards,  making sure the bottom of the plywood is attached 6″ up from the bottom of each 2×2.  Make sure the side of the plywood with the pocket holes is flush with the edge of 2×2 boards:

 

Now we are going to attach the two sides together to form this:

 

 

Drill 5/8″ pocket holes into the two short sides on one side of each of the two 56 1/4″ plywood boards.  Using wood glue and 1″ pocket hole screws,  attach the plywood board to each of the two assembled side pieces (make sure pocket holes are on bottom side of shelf).  Attach 3/4″ bottom shelf so it is flush with the bottom of the plywood on the side pieces.

 

 

Draw a line that is 16″ from the top of the bottom shelf on each of the side plywood pieces.  This will be the location for the bottom of the next shelf.

Now, using wood glue  and 1″ pocket hole screws,  attach the upper shelf.  The bottom of the upper shelf should be at the marked 16″ line that was just drawn. This shelf should also be flush with the back two 2×2 boards and the pocket holes should be on the underside of the board.

 

 

Next, cut three 2×2 boards to 56 1/4″ in length each.  Then,  drill two 1 1/4″ pocket holes into each end of one side of each board.  Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws,  attach two of the 56 1/4″ boards to each of the front and back legs, the top  of the front 2×2 should be flush with the top of the front legs and side plywood, and the pocket holes should be facing up.  The back 2×2 should be even with the front one:

 

Attach the remaining 56 1/4″ 2×2 across the top of the 90 1/2″ tall back legs.  The top of the 2×2 should be flush with the top of the back legs.  Attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 

Turkleton, my friendly feline supervisor, stopped by to check my progress.  Although he does have a stern look on his face, he does approve! 🙂

 

Now, time to assemble the sides for the top section. Whoo hoo! We are gettin’ closer!  (Okay, might have had a little too much Coke Zero today!  No more caffeine for this girl!)

 

Cut two 1×12 boards to 48″ each.  Drill 3/4″ pocket holes into all four sides on one side of each 48″ 1×12.

 

 

Next, cut two 2×2 boards to 51″ each and cut four 2×2 boards to 11 1/4″ each.

Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws, attach one of the 11 1/4″ 2×2 boards to the top of the plywood making up the sides of the bottom section (predrill with a countersink drill bit).

 

Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the 48″ 1×12 to the other 11 1/4″ 2×2 along the short side of the 1×12, and attach the long side of the 1×12 to the 51″ 2×2.  The pocket hole side of the 1×12 should sit flush with the 2×2 boards:

 

 

Next, using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws,  attach the assembled side pieces to the top section of the entertainment center:

 

 

Now,  time for the support boards to hold the top shelf of the laundry sorter section.  Cut three 2×2 boards to 18″ each.  Using the kreg jig, drill 1 1/4″ pocket holes into each end of one side of each of the 18″ boards.

Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws,  attach the three 18″ 2×2 boards between the top two 2×2 boards at the top of the laundry sorter section. Make sue the boards sit flush with the 2×2 boards they are being attached to, and the pocket holes should be facing up.  The middle 2×2 board should be placed in the center of that section, as it will also be the board that the shelf dividers attach to in a future step.

 

 

Next,  cut the boards to build the TV shelf and the top of the entertainment center.

Cut two 1×12 boards to 56 1/4″ each.

For the top board,  drill 3/4″ pocket holes around all of the edges of one side of this board, this will be the top board of the entertainment center.

Cut three 2×2 boards to 56 1/4″ in length.  Drill two 1 1/4″ pocket holes into each end of one side of each 2×2.

Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws,  attach one of the 2×2  boards to the long side of the 1×12 top board, making sure the pocket holes are facing up, and the 1×12 board should sit flush with the side of the 2×2 board that has the pocket holes.

 

Next, build the shelf for the TV stand.  Take the other 1×12 board with the pocket holes only on the long sides and using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the 2×2 boards to each side of the 1×12 board.  The pocket holes should be facing down and the 1×12 should sit flush with the sides of the 2×2 without the pocket holes (the side opposite the pocket holes).

Set the assembled TV shelf board aside for now.  Next, build the shelf for the top of the laundry sorter.

Cut four 2×4 boards to 56 1/4″ each and cut two 2×4 boards to 59 1/4″ each.  Now it’s time to determine where to notch one of the 59 1/4″ boards on each side.  Place the boards on the shelf to see the fit.  Once all the boards are placed upon the shelf,  measure the size of the notch that needs to be cut out of one of the 59 1/4″ boards.  For mine, I had to notch a small section that measured 1 1/2″ in length and about 1/4″ in width.  I drew this onto the 2×4, and then. using my jig saw,  I cut out the area to create the notch. (As you can see, as mentioned earlier, I cannot cut a straight line to save my life, hence the addition of some trim pieces in a later step to hide my serious lack of straight-cutting skills!)

 

Once you have cut your notches, assemble the boards into a shelf.  First drill three 1 1/4″ pocket holes into one of the long sides of one side of all but one the 2×4 boards.  Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws,  attach the 2×4 boards together, making sure they are in the same order as when you were fitting the boards to cut the notch.  The pocket holes should be on the bottom side of the shelf.

Once the shelf is assembled,  place it into its proper location on the entertainment center and attach from underneath using wood glue and 2 1/2″ wood screws (use countersink bit to predrill holes through the bottom of the 2×2 boards the shelf is resting on).

 

Now, time to add the TV shelf. 🙂  First, cut a 1×6 board to 11 1/4″ in length.  Drill 1 1/4″ pocket holes into each of the four sides of one side of the 2×6.

Cut two 2×2 boards, to 4 3/4″ in length each.  Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the two 2×2 boards to each end of the 2×6 board, the 2×2 boards should sit flush with the bottom of the 2×6 board (if the 2×6 was lying on it’s narrow side lengthwise – see picture below).

Using wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, attach the 2×6 board to the top of the 2×4 boards. Make sure the 2×6 is centered on the shelf.

Next place two scrap 2×6 boards on top of each end of the 2×4 shelf (these will act as spacers when placing the TV shelf to help ensure it is level).

Insert the previously assembled TV shelf onto the 2×6 boards.  Once ensuring that the shelf is level, use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the TV shelf in place (using the pocket holes on the 2×2 boards on the front and back of the shelf).

 

Time to add the shelf dividers for the laundry sorter section.  Remember those two 3/4″ plywood boards you cut WAY back at the beginning?? (There should have been one cut to 19 1/2″ x 14 1/8″ and one cut to 19 1/2″ x 16 1/4″).  Now you can grab those. 🙂  Drill 3/4″ pocket holes along the two longer sides (the 19 1/2″ sides) of one side of each board.

 

Find the center point of the two shelves, and using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, attach the divider boards to the upper and lower boards (use a framing square and/or speed square to ensure boards are  straight). The 14 1/8″ board is attached in the top section,  the 16 1/4″ board is placed in the lower section:

 

 

 

Now, time to pretty her up!  Let’s add the trim pieces! 🙂

Cut the 1×2 trim boards:

• Cut two 1×2 boards to 56 1/4″ each
• Cut two 1×2 boards to 18″ each

Using wood glue and Ryobi Airstrike nail gun,  attach 1×2 trim to locations shown below:

• Add one 18″ 1×2 board to the bottom of the plywood sides of the laundry sorter section:

 

• Add a 56 1/4″ 1×2 board to the front of each of the two laundry sorter section shelves (using wood glue and Ryobi nailer):

Cut one 2×2 board to 14 1/4″ long and one 2×2 to 14 1/2′ long.  Attach to the front of the divider boards using wood glue.  The 14 1/4″ 2×2 attaches to top divider, and the 14 1/2″ 2×2 attaches to bottom divider:

 

Getting closer!!  Time for the beadboard backing.  Using a circular saw and the ever handy-dandy Rip Cut (or a table saw), cut one sheet of 4′ x 8′ beadboard to 84 1/2″ in length.  Cut the second sheet of beadboard to 11 1/2″ wide x 84 1/2″ in length.

 

Using wood glue and the Ryobi Airstrike nailer (or finish nails and a hammer will work too, just will take a bit longer),  attach the beadboard to the back of the entertainment center.  The top of the beadboard should sit flush with the top of the entertainment center.

(I had to get a little creative to be able to get the large beadboard panels even with the top of the entertainment center! 🙂  The board was too heavy to lift into place with one hand so I could clamp it in place, and it’s a bit flimsy which makes it even harder.  So, I had to stack a bunch of scrap wood underneath the board to get it raised high enough to clamp it so I could nail it in place!

 

 

Time for the laundry basket support boards.  Cut eight 2×2 boards to 19″ each.  Drill two 5/8″ pocket holes into one of the long sides on one side of each 2×2 board.

Using wood glue and 1″ pocket hole screws, attach the 2×2 boards 12 1/4″ up from the top of the shelf on each side of each of the four sections.  Make sure when placing the 2×2 boards, the pocket holes are located on the bottom of the the attached 2×2.

 

Now let’s move on to the crown molding.  Cut a 59 1/4″ length of molding (short end to short end) – crown requires a beveled cut and miter cut at 45 degrees, if you are unsure how to cut mitered and beveled corners, you may need to do some research and practice cuts first.  Kreg also sells a tool to make cutting crown easy, you can purchase that on Amazon here (affiliate link):Kreg KMA2800 Crown-Pro Crown Molding Tool.  Cut two 14 1/4″ lengths of crown (short end to straight end).  Using the  Ryobi Airstrike nailer, attach the crown to the bottom of the top 2×2 boards around the front and sides of the entertainment center.

 

Lastly, cut the small trim to size, cut two pieces at 1 1/2″ with one end of each cut at a 45 degree angle.  Cut two trim pieces to 14 1/4″ with one end of each cut at a 45 degree angle.  Don’t attach yet though!

Next, we need to fill all holes with pocket hole plugs and/or wood filler.  I used pine pocket hole plugs to fill the pocket holes and sanded them down.  I used wood filler to fill any imperfections of other holes.

 

Once all the pocket holes have been filled and glue or wood filler has dried,  sand down any pocket hole plugs until they are flush with the boards.

Then, sand, stain, and paint the entire unit.  First sand with a very rough low grit sandpaper (60 or 80 grit), then wipe down and sand with a mid-grit sand paper (around 180), and then lastly, sand with a very fine grit sand paper so the wood is super smooth.

Once the unit has been sanded and wiped down,  stain the shelf made of 2×4 boards with Minwax Dark Walnut.  Once dry,  cover the stained area with plastic and painters tape.  Then primer and then paint the remainder of the entertainment center (I used Rustoleum Heirloom White paint).  Also paint the small trim pieces with the white paint.

 

Once the unit has received enough coats of paint so the finish appears even,  adhere the small trim pieces above the 2×4 shelf.  I used the Ryobi Airstrike nailer to attach.  Fill in the small nail holes with wood filler and let dry.

Once the wood filler has dried, lightly sand the wood filler, and touch up the paint on the trim.  Once that has dried,  coat the entire entertainment center with three coats of Minwax Polycrylic Water Based finish.

Lastly, using a hole saw bit,  drill out three holes in the beadboard (One hole should be added where the TV cord will go, and then one hole in the beadboard behind each of the two small media component sections – under the TV shelf).

I purchased the laundry basket at Target, but this unit will fit baskets that are 71L (2 Bushels) in size.  The dimensions of the basket are 27″ in length from end of hand to end of handle, and 12″ tall.

Here is the exact basket that I purchased at Target (this is an affiliate link through Amazon and is a pack of 6 of the basket I bought – I bought 4 at Target for the price of 6 at Amazon:

To label the basket with laundry colors/items,  I found these really cute metal clip-on labels at Target that I added text to and clipped to the side of each laundry basket:

 

And now…

The finished project:

 

 

 

 

 

I must say, I’m loving my new entertainment center!  Now I just need to build a new bed, dresser, and nightstands for my bedroom that match this…